It’s my last day in Lanzarote, and so, highlands are strictly out of bounds. I’m going to stick to exploring nice, relaxing beaches. There will be no hiking up miradors in todays daytrip!
- Start of the Day Trip- Estación de Guaguas, Arrecife
- Cost of Day Trip – Cheap (£)
Beach No 1 – Punta Mujeres
My reward for catching the early bus to Punta Mujeres is the pleasure of a glorious sunrise as the bus makes its moderate ascent to Teguise (another of my daytrips). It promises to be a beautiful day.
When the bus goes over the brow at Teguisete, ahead of me a magical scene unfolds. In the distance, is the sea, with the sun just peeking out. As the bus dives down towards the sea, I witness the sun gradually change from a little pink dot to a glowing ball of yellow.
The bus is now charging (buses do drive fast in Lanzarote) down the coast towards Punta Mujeres. I can just about make out the broken pier of Playa Garita, where I plan to start my walk.
As I am driven into Arrieta, I am greeted by the 3 wisemen (surely it’s unlucky not to have taken X’mas decorations down by now !!) on the roundabout. And when I alight, I’m greeted by a glorious bunch of pink bougainvillea across the bus stop. What a welcome!
There are helpful signs for the deserted Playa de la Garita, 500m away. And from there I wander along Calle Playa and Calle Garita in the direction of Punta Mujeres, enjoying the sweep of the bay.
From what I can make out, Calle Garita is the sum total of Arrieta’s “tourist centre”. There’s a dive company, a supermarket, a couple of shops and a few restaurants with balconies hanging over the beach. Hurrah! No chance of the madding crowd here.
At the little pier with a lighthouse and the El Pisquito restaurant, I’m fascinated by the detached red and blue house on the other side. I peer into the sculptured gardens through its locked gates. I sit on some benches alongside the property to soak up some sun, whilst reading about its melancholy tale.
From there, I walk along the coastal road out of town. For a short distance between Arrieta and Punta Mujeres, there is no township. Just hills to the left and the sea to the right. I spot a couple of surfers riding the waves. They must have nerves of steel to want to be swept towards a very rocky beach.
Punta Mujeres is also another quiet tourist town. There are many walkways that take me right up to the hundreds of rock pools around, guaranteeing hours of entertainment for the young ones, and me.
The next point of great interest for me, as it relates to food, is Bar La Piscina. Inside a group of locals are playing cards. Outside there is seating along the kerb nearer the beach. Decision is made, I will lunch here later. But for now I head towards Casa Carmelina. It’s cacti display is superb, an act of dedication.
I continue to the end of Punta Mujeres. The village is dazzling white in the hot sun, boats dry on the beaches, waves break against the rocks. If I return to this island, I would consider making this idyllic town my base to explore northern Lanzarote.
Next I drop into the Aloe Plus Lanzarote Museum. It contains interesting facts about aloe vera, salt production, the cochineal industry, as well as a huge aloe shop. Christopher Columbus listed 4 vegetables indispensable to man – wheat, olives, grapes and aloe. And so, encouraged by Columbus’ words of wisdom, I go in search of my liquidated grape before catching the bus back to Arrecife.
Beach No 2 – Caleta De Famara
The bus takes a new route, for me, out of Arrecife. Once past Tiagua, the landscape whilst still volcanic, sits in wide open plains. It’s like a scene from the South American grassland, especially when I see a farmer and his dog herding sheep across the plain.
But it’s the view appearing ahead that arrests my attention for the remainder of the journey. First I see, looming dark and sheer, the Risco de Famara. That slowly shifts out of the way, as the island of La Graciosa appears in the horizon.
Unlike Caleta del Sebo on La Graciosa, the sandy streets in Caleta de Famara only last two blocks before giving way to tarmac. It’s a functional town. It’s reason for existing is to cater for those wishing to surf, kite or practice yoga.
As the bus drives into Caleta de Famara, the beach seems to stretch all the way to the base of the Risco de Famara. It’s Saturday and there is a hive of activity on the beach. As I get closer, I realize that there are numerous surf classes in progress. The surfers in the sea, the motorcyclists whizzing past, the cycling trial on the street, all create an energetic buzz to this place this afternoon.
But despite all the distractions around me, I can’t tear my eyes away from the beauty of nature. The sun darting in and out of the cloudy sky, creates a kaleidoscope of muted colours on La Graciosa, Risco de Famara and Batería de Rio jutting out just behind.
I can just about make out the Mirador de Guinate, which I hiked to on my trip to Maguez , and the boundary wall of the Mirador Bosquecillo when I visited Hária. And in full view from the beach are the southern mountains of La Graciosa, the beautiful island I visited a few days ago.
Not only has Caleta de Famara been one of the more scenic beaches I’ve visited here, it has also served as a trip down memory lane of some of my wonderful daytrips in Lanzarote this time round.
All the Buses I Needed
- Timetable for Buses to Arrieta, Punta Mujeres
- Timetable for Buses to Caleta de Famara from Arrecife
- Timetable for Buses to Caleta de Famara from Teguise /Costa Teguise
Timetable for Bus no 7 – timetable
Jardin de Cacti – Admission 5Euros, 10:00-17:45